LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN FW15
In order to accommodate a growing schedule of shows, presentations and
events, this season’s London Collections: Men opened a day earlier, showcasing
the best of British Autumn/Winter 2015 menswear.
Now in its sixth season,
LC: M expansion reflects its success. As more designers joined the schedule and
attendance figures grew, the extra day allowed press and buyers the opportunity
to experience all that LC: M has to offer - from London’s heritage brands and
international names through to the most celebrated emerging talent.
DAY ONE
Increasing to four days, January the 9th the kickoff with Topman Design opening the schedule: «We are very excited and extremely proud to be opening the first day of LC: M in January with TOPMAN Design. 2015 also marks the 10th anniversary of MAN - our joint initiative with Fashion EAST which over the years has seen some of the most exciting young menswear designers come through the fold. MAN paved the way for LC: M - claiming first a slot on the LFW womenswear calendar, then a half day dedicated to menswear, then a full three days … and now, very excitingly - a fourth. It really stands testament to the level of quality and more importantly creativity that we have right here in London.» Gordon Richardson, Creative Director of TOPMAN. He and his team, presented a collection full of references to the ’60s and ’70s at their ‘TOPMAN Show Space’, which has been used for designers like Lee Roach, Oliver Spencer and Christopher Raeburn.
Increasing to four days, January the 9th the kickoff with Topman Design opening the schedule: «We are very excited and extremely proud to be opening the first day of LC: M in January with TOPMAN Design. 2015 also marks the 10th anniversary of MAN - our joint initiative with Fashion EAST which over the years has seen some of the most exciting young menswear designers come through the fold. MAN paved the way for LC: M - claiming first a slot on the LFW womenswear calendar, then a half day dedicated to menswear, then a full three days … and now, very excitingly - a fourth. It really stands testament to the level of quality and more importantly creativity that we have right here in London.» Gordon Richardson, Creative Director of TOPMAN. He and his team, presented a collection full of references to the ’60s and ’70s at their ‘TOPMAN Show Space’, which has been used for designers like Lee Roach, Oliver Spencer and Christopher Raeburn.
Topman Design’s FW15 collection was titled “Bombay City Rollers”, a Rock
& Roll, groovy, rebellious and revolutionary collection, as explained by
the metallic lightning bolts and the embroidered badges on this season’s
signature looks. Most significant were the American 1970s active wear inspired
hip-huggers, track suits, leisure suits and flare jeans. Models walking down
the runway in western overalls, tartan suits, shearling bombers and ombre mohair
coats.
The meteoric rise of American menswear label Public School is one to be admired. Having recently won the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund, it stealthily bagged the inaugural Men’s International Woolmark Prize at LC:M. The competition drew entries from an international pool of designers from twenty countries, culminating in a shortlist of 5 forerunners: Sise from Japan, Asger Juel Larson from Denmark, Australia’s Strateas Carlucci, The Emperor 1688 From UAE and Public School from the United States. The collection from Public School seen today is an extension of its Brooklyn sensibilities, a mix of casual urban staples and a strict monochromatic palette. Steeped in its sportswear conventions, the mini-collection featured ready-to-market and undoubtedly commercially viable pieces. A closer look revealed state-of-the-art fabric manipulation techniques that go into making each piece a worthy investment. The authenticity and values that have become the drivers for Public School’s success so far really resonated through, and ultimately set it apart from its esteemed competitors.
Blue sweaters with interesting and weird looking print of Shannon. Very cool detailed shirts. Blue knitted sweaters with “Thanks 4 Nothing” written on it, sentence that we might very well see in lots of editorials in the near future. Speaking of future, Christopher Shannon’s satire on the insatiable appetite for consumption takes his occasional exploration of trash culture to another level: a humorously disguised as a parade of "garbage men", in the literal sense of the phrase. Stray plastic bags covered models’ faces. Pop culture references like the coke can, and declarative sweatshirt slogans recur this time as mentioned, with messages like “Broken, Broken, Broken”. Congratulations to Shannon for tackling such serious subject while keeping his humor intact.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Topman Design FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
The meteoric rise of American menswear label Public School is one to be admired. Having recently won the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund, it stealthily bagged the inaugural Men’s International Woolmark Prize at LC:M. The competition drew entries from an international pool of designers from twenty countries, culminating in a shortlist of 5 forerunners: Sise from Japan, Asger Juel Larson from Denmark, Australia’s Strateas Carlucci, The Emperor 1688 From UAE and Public School from the United States. The collection from Public School seen today is an extension of its Brooklyn sensibilities, a mix of casual urban staples and a strict monochromatic palette. Steeped in its sportswear conventions, the mini-collection featured ready-to-market and undoubtedly commercially viable pieces. A closer look revealed state-of-the-art fabric manipulation techniques that go into making each piece a worthy investment. The authenticity and values that have become the drivers for Public School’s success so far really resonated through, and ultimately set it apart from its esteemed competitors.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Woolmark FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
This season's MAN designers, represented by Liam
Hodges and Nicomede Talavera and newcomer Rory Parnell-Mooney all referenced
where they were from: Kent, Hounslow and Ireland, respectively. And those
locations provided part of the impetus to each designer's collection, from
Talavera's layered street wear to Hodges' boisterous market-town separates, to
Parnell-Mooney's precise ecclesiastical vestments. This last one, who opened
the showcase proposed potent, abstracted symbols by showing clean, flattened
shapes derived from religious vestments. Liam Hodges, whose battered,
tape-seamed anoraks and thick, bright knits stayed true to his emphatically
constructed aesthetic. Nicomede Talavera, the most abstract of the three, whose
cut-off overcoats and pin-striped, layered shirts were anchored with
sweatshirts. Interesting combining of black and white striped shirts, cool
sweaters and the very over-sized like a dress looking long sleeved black sweater
with the word “sucker” written on it and its interesting cut on the sides.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
MAN - Liam Hodges, Rory Parnell-Mooney, Nicomede Talavera FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
“Kit
Neale Joins The Circus” said the invitation for their Fall/Winter 2015
collection. Designer Christopher Neale stepped away from the label’s signature
illustrative style and chose for a more graphic approach. Bright colors have
definitely taken over. Must-have red hats combined with awesome shorts and
amazing red pants with very chic prints. Detail that we find again on the
sweaters as well as the KIT letters on top of the blue-red sweaters. Jackets
with really cool and fresh printed sleeves worn along the out-standing white
T-shirt with slogan “No teddy bears were
harmed in making of this coat” underneath an
amazing blue coat. Not to forget another awesome white shirt with letters
printed in tiny square shapes. What a fantastic collection!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Kit Neale FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
On
the same day one of our all time favourite fashion brands presented their first
ever menswear show during LC:M. «American
silhouettes, pieces that you know, reinterpreted with a new hand for a guy
who’s comfortable with his individual style» said Stuart Vevers about his
very first Coach menswear
collection. Perfect colours, especially the navy green and black combination. Absolutely
astonishing coats and bags. Lots of wearable clothes. From leather shirt to a
fur coat, from really cool sneakers and bags to winter caps and necklaces.
Simply lovable. Well done Coach!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Coach FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Blue sweaters with interesting and weird looking print of Shannon. Very cool detailed shirts. Blue knitted sweaters with “Thanks 4 Nothing” written on it, sentence that we might very well see in lots of editorials in the near future. Speaking of future, Christopher Shannon’s satire on the insatiable appetite for consumption takes his occasional exploration of trash culture to another level: a humorously disguised as a parade of "garbage men", in the literal sense of the phrase. Stray plastic bags covered models’ faces. Pop culture references like the coke can, and declarative sweatshirt slogans recur this time as mentioned, with messages like “Broken, Broken, Broken”. Congratulations to Shannon for tackling such serious subject while keeping his humor intact.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Christopher Shannon FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
To close London Collections: Men first day of
shows Todd Lynn presented models walking down the runway with interesting feminine hair stylings. Really nice black
and green pants as well as the illusional over-sized sweater with extremely
long sleeves. Amazing cut details on shoulders of the black jackets. A must
have is definitely the green jacket with interesting black and white washed
sleeves at the bottom.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Todd Lynn FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
DAY TWO
Right after two weeks of Christmas stop Day 2
of LC: M shows starts at 9 am with Lee Roach, whose aesthetic, particularly in
the opening looks, has notably eased up, with amazing wrapped, cocoon-like
blanket coats in cloudy greys and slouchy blacks. It was the first time Roach
showed in the British Fashion Council’s bigger venue: a well deserved spot
during London Collections: Men. Cool bed-head hair, sweatshirts inbetween
pyjamas and straitjacket, ruffled layering. And the more the outfits came out
the more the looks were filled with bursts of pumpkin, glossy steel and lemon
yellow. Incredible detail as on the awesome black pants with interesting zipper
puts at the bottom and on the front. A must have of this wonderful collection?
For sure, the silver metallic skinny jeans pants.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Lee Roach FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Although not opening LC: M the all awaited
cute Lou Dalton had all her audience non-stop clapping at her show finale. And
every time you happen to get to one of her shows, you know it’s going to be
good. And that’s right exactly what it happened even this time. With its signature
black-on-black palette of murky tartans and MA-1 nylons, cosy sweatshirts and
dirty pink cardigans. Thwarted zip lines, Thunderbird comic-strip prints, and
tufts of felted, brick-pink underlay crept out at unexpected joints in
doubled-up coats and jackets. Amazing avant-garde black jumpsuit made look so
wearable as well as the masterly combination of touches pink and green.
Wonderful are yet the blue-aqua knitted sweater and the printed black-white
scarf. The coat on coat layering and ‘jacket-in-jacket’ items took Dalton’s
minimal tailoring to a higher level this season. Emerging menswear talent Lou
Dalton is and stays one of the absolute highlights on the London
Collections: Men schedule.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Lou Dalton FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Referring to the swagger of Nineties
U.S. hip-hop, Astrid Andersen’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection presented amazing long oversized metallic
shirts and jackets with the black fur on top, jumpsuits, parkas and bombers
pumped up to extra-large proportions, in a meld of glistening leathers, fuzzy
plaids and wet-look sheers. Its Black Panther berets and aggressive,
combat-ready layers, underlined the still-potent appeal of the Action Man
ideal. Silver metallic detail numbers on the back. Baggy black metallic pants
with gold zippers. Fur caps and knitted sweaters with incredible printed
details. Moulded vinyl badges and baseball graphics hammered home the label's
sportswear roots, alongside supersized crimson Ushanka caps and color-blocked
sweaters stretched out into calf-length, side-slit tunics. The black oversized
T-shirt with white and red print on top of the sleeves and leather shirt
underneath are an absolute must-have. Amazing color pallet as well as the nice
touch given by the red lace. What an amazing collection!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Astrid Andersen FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Coming midway through the second day of
shows, YMC definitively confirmed the schedule's already-emerging mood.
Models rocking the runway even before the music tuned, dull black and storm
blue bomber jackets and trackpants. Soft wool and chunky cable knits at same
time. Signal of vivid color (French blue, canary yellow, green). Leather and
metallic details. Amazing full-blue looks: blue leather jacket and pants with a
touch of grey given by the scarf. Flattering hats and blue navy jackets as
masterpieces. Very cool pockets on the sweaters. The shapes and styling stayed
close to the label's usual sensibility. Great job!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
YMC FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
“Emerging Menswear Designer of the Year” to
Craig Green at the most recent British Fashion Awards Agi & Sam’s
Fall/Winter 2015 started by showing an amazing Lego-blocks make-up and went
down from household tailoring to more deconstructed shapes, with clever Velcro
seams barely piecing the patterns together. Amazing color panels and details on
all the pieces. Slightly oversized fits, like kids playing dress up. Really
appreciated were the all over prints on jackets made of orange, yellow and blue
details on a simple black jacket. Wonderful color-blocking on coats with added
prints. Simply brilliant.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Agi & Sam FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Danish brand Soulland , has stolen our attention this
morning with their FW15 “Exotic/Erotic” collection. The broad range of looks
featuring pinstripes, bomber jacket, bleached denim and suede jackets are just
a few of the mixed components offered in the collection. Designer Silas Adler
commented «We wanted to do something that
was on an international platform. Paris and London were the options and London
just seemed like a really good fit for us. […] There’s a very special link
between British people and Danish people. I think that we really understand
each other.». Creativity was definitely off the chart. Guests had been notified to download an app previous to the show, and
this app would become crucial for the overall experience of the show. The
show was set up in a church and the models were individually placed in front of
green screens, and using the app, these screens literally came to life on your
phone with different graphic clips. The new “Exotic/Erotic” collection is
more loosely put together, compared to some of the previous collections,
which have primarily been dominated by some sort of print. This way the
collection is more focused on each piece being able to stand on its own.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Soulland FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Running down the last shows of London Collections: Men second day it’s
Hardy Amies time. Between the models casted for this show there’s also
supermodel Max Rendell, author of our incredible winter story about the Big
Apple. His performance, together with all of the other big names in the show,
presented us very well Amies’ amazing tailoring abilities. Wonderful classy yet
very fresh suits, a hard goal to achieve nowadays. Just to pick one: the
flawless blue one with the blue tie on a white shirt. Great look was carried by Max Rendell: a
dark white jacket with fur over-head worn over a brown-red suit. Not to
mention, all of the amazing sweaters. Having suits in a collection is sometimes
hard to achieve freshness appearances, but thst is not definitely Hardy Amies’
case: very new, bright and wearable are the key words to this incredible
collection. Love it!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Hardy Amies FW15 at London Collections: Men. [In the middle of the pic: supermodel Max Rendell].
|
Spencer’s FW15
collection progressed from a more playful and colourful approach, as shown in
the past collections, to a more modern and cleaner look. «I guess we
are trying to be more serious [!], but really, it is just the way
I am feeling at the moment. We are trying to fill the gap between luxury and
contemporary fashion.». The so called by Spencer himself “normal
people wearing his clothes”-models were coming down the runway carring wonderful
double breasted coats, oversized roll necks and bomber jackets. Spencer
collection was mostly built on greys, a definitive must have are the baggy grey
sweatpants with black details all over them. This all very wearable collection
presented also amazing pink, red and blue knitted oversized sweaters which
looks extremely comfortable. Wool, alpaca and suede jackets and trench coats
sat solidly off the body, their thickness and heft evident at every step; a
weight matched by padded ski-pants and formal jackets in bold red, mustard and
navy tones. Lots of details are flowers oriented which is really fresh yet
still manly. «Someone in my team found it. Sometimes you just get things delivered on
a silver platter, you know.», commented Spencer once again.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Oliver Spencer FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
At a certain point midway through this
afternoon, London's weather changed from bright and brisk to a bitter, piercing
cold. No matter what the weather could have been, today's show continued
strongly their run. Matthew Miller was one of them. His clean-lined modern
basics in cool stone, burgundy, indigo and grey tones collection started with a
very well-made red leather jacket everyone would love to wear. Very cool were
the detail on some of the pieces made by a black and white chain on the zippers
saying “RESISTANT” Apart from a few statement elements, most of the garments
were agreeably androgynous flat, disciplined, overlapping planes fraying out at
the hem. Amazing over-alls, surrounded by a lovely red shade through the whole
collection.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Matthew Miller FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Watch out: sharks! Christopher Raeburn metaphor to allude to the
attitude needed to survive the increasingly competitive marketplace took the
runway today at the second day of London Collection’s: Men. Raeburn’s show
today saw actual lifeboats being deconstructed and re-stitched into paneled
parkas and bomber jackets. Latex rubber was used to create inflatable vests,
accents of red punctuated the otherwise dark palette. Not only survival then:
Christopher Raeburn’s collection has shown us once again his capability of
heading on top the food chain.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Christopher Raeburn FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Pink, pink and… pink! Rounding out the second day of shows, Sibling
relied upon to lift the mood presenting an extravagant pink shade through his
Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Clothes were boisterously, exuberantly
enthusiastic on every level - navy and raspberry striped boating blazers,
luminous pink cobweb knits, glittering checkerboard cardigans, slick vinyl
coats erupting into swathes of goat hair and crumpled paper-bag tailoring. But
not only this: knitted lovely kid’s teddy bears turned into giant bear were
carried by the models down the catwalk. Little need of adding some extra color?
Let’s dye hair in… pink! Simply unique.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Sibling FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
DAY THREE
J.W. Anderson
show opened LC: M Day 3 at 11 am. In a very futuristic vision, Anderson reprised
the 70’s retrofuture shapes with tailored bellbottom trousers, pique wing
collar, ribbed knits, half-zip collared sweaters, a spectrum of brown hues and waxy
nappa leather outerwear. Recurrent detail on most of the pieces: the oversized,
stereo-like buttons that lined the coats. Very cool sleeves on shirts as well
as very interesting details on bottom of the black pants.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
J. W. Anderson FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Architecture and fashion. The found, the imprecise, the
if-it-isn't-broke-don't-mess-with-it. Margaret Howell. In this season’s
collection models and clothes looked like they were walking down a November-alike
London street. Amazing blue-aqua scarves on top of a sleeves T-shirt followed
by wonderful pants throughout the whole collection. Clean, well-made,
simplistic and elegant clothes, showed the collection's tiny details making
them appear as visible to the audience as they would be to a customer. The
woven diamond details on the back of roll-neck sweaters, the raised pockets, the
whip-stitched edges, the bands of contrast color blocked onto unexpected
tunic-style vests. Flannel, gloomy peat, indigo and charcoal, mustard, chestnut,
duck-egg blue and puce were the shades that triumphed on the catwalk. A
wearable parky London collection ready to be sold.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Margaret Howell FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Playing on contrast, amazing knitwear designer James Long fabric
manipulation built his look on a tough exterior of utility wear paired with
lace appliqués. «Everything we looked at,
we wanted to say, you know, it’s not just a biker jacket. It’s that
juxtaposition of glamour and on-the-edge that I always love.», explained
the designer. Amazing black jackets with huge pockets to really spectacular
lace blue pants. Plenty of denim, lace and prints details. Wonderful black
sweatpants with a print of a lady in yellow, blue and white are the absolute
immediate must-buy piece. Awesome detailed grey shorts. Utility straps cinched
bulkier shapes giving unexpected undulations in the silhouette. Construction
lines over the shoulders were reinforced with excess fabric. Surely one of the
best collection so far, if not the very best itself.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
James Long FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Richard James FW15 show notes promised a real adventure, perhaps more
expected by some other designers instead. Great surprise though. Tailoring
executed in earthy shades of bronze, terracotta and stone; outerwear steeped in
rich chocolates and electric blues; touches of vivid yellow and fuchsia. The
strong mood was well matched with thick flannels and hefty sheepskins in
abundance. The peasant graphic sweaters or micro-print shirts, were James’ usual
solid ground. To close we can say though that the color palette was the coming
true big promised adventure.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Richard James FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
A nine pieces collection had Alex Mattson’s Fall/Winter 2015
presentation shine. Lovely colors matched together, amazing sweaters with
colorful sleeves. Not to forget the baggy artsy pants and the all around
wonderful easy breeze of freshness to sum up together the whole looks. Well done!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Alex Mattson FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Snowstorm on
the way lads! What's really impressive is that Jeremy Scott’s Moschino never
fails to impress: every single show is different from the past one and it’s a
complete new experience each single time. The not-only-men menswear show had Jourdan
Dunn as the icing on top of the cake. And among with her, lumberjack checks and
bare-chested models with perfectly sculpted bodies paraded down the runway trekking
through the wintery back woods. A typical bourgeois ski holiday somewhere in
the Aspen alps with a hint of Americanism. Gold foil puffers to patchworked,
cropped shearling bombers, military coats that come dripping in David
Crockett’s fox tails and multi-colored Montgomerys. Different patterns like
zebra, snow leopard print as well as loads of different colors, black and white
combination, fur, neon yellow, orange and let's not forget the gold. Oversized
glove sling bags, checks on checks, the jewel-encrusted backpacks. Nylon and
silver metallic leather stamped with punchy orange hibiscus prints brings a
street edge, while rough buffalo check. Other materials: classic herringbones
and tweeds and the brightly colored fuzzy mohair. Yes, we’re ready to party!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Moschino FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
If we had to pick another show that never fails to do well, it would
definitely be Pringle of Scotland. A very clean, back-to-basics simple
collection was the key to its FW 2015 show. The marvelous well made coats and
all of the amazing knitted elements who dominated the catwalk. As a Pringle
standard, plenty of interest in the fabrication, whether on more dramatic
inversions like soft-structured coats with sprouted chunky detailing or in
panels of contrast-knit technique and texture. Furthermore, plenty of subtler
touches hit the runway too, from greyscale interpretations of the house's
pastel-twee Argyll print to tartan patterns woven from planes of contrasting
matt and gloss. An absolute appropriate winter season colors palette: happy
200th anniversary!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Pringle of Scotland FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Remembering the ancient McQueen shows, FW15 collection could definitely
be called its revival. Sarah Burton’s sartorial discipline, reining it in and
working with the codes of uniforms and uniformity. A very dark well-executed
collection as expected, with slogans “Valour, Truth, Honour” adorning the
tailored jackets as «a symbol that all men
are equal in the face of duty», as Burton mentioned. Velvet saltires,
chesterfield frock coats and crystal embellishments. Amazing black leather
shoes along with the absolute must-have long black sweater with HONOUR written
on it and the detailed leather zipper on the edge of the sleeves. Awesome
flower printed details. A patriotic collection in memory of the wonderful
predecessor Lee McQueen, already five years after his tragic departure.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Alexander McQueen FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
One of
our for sure favorite shows during LC: M has definitely been KTZ. The models
Army came down the runway with military suiting,
mid-calf boots, and stitched-on insignias. Bowler hats and all white ensembles.
Black and white prints with detailed colorful prints on hackers, T-shirts and
coats. The black leather hat and the grey long coat with hieroglyphic prints on
it are a sure must-have as well as the long sweater with blue-white stripes and
the black print of a hand in the middle, same as the amazing details on the
hands and the bottom of the sweater black fur. Simply amazing!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
KTZ FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Unveiling a ’50s and ’60s
inspiration, but focused on the idea of freedom, with a great selection of
casual looks and loose silhouettes, Dunhill was one of the last shows during
Day 3 of London Collections: Men. Balancing the vintage inspiration with the
contemporary and dynamic concept of menswear, the label delivered a covetable
and confident lineup. John Ray’s debut at Dunhill centered on the idea of
subdued masculinity. Soft, neutral tones were front and center while homey
fabrics gave the collection a sensitive, artist vibe. Nice touch to the
collection is given by most of the pants being oversized. A must have is
definitely the brown and black fur coat which looks really amazing. A very
appropriate English man very classy yet elegant collection, for all of those
men who know what they want and like.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Dunhill FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
One of the most prestigious
retailers on Savile Row, Gieves & Hawkes, presented an amazing ready-to-wear
Fall Winter collection, catering to a wider range of men, and not only kings
and nobles, but including also lawyers and middle managers who want to dress to
impress. Fact is, those men should look not much further than this collection
indeed. The dark and moody color palette, most of the whom in solid colors,
looked as very nice bespoke suits. The strongest pieces included a formal
velvet suit with a plain tee underneath a matching scarf and a fur biker
jacket. Mission achieved.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Gieves & Hawkes FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Trying to look for a
masterpiece that kept the whole collection together, we can definitely say that
the bold black-and-white striped overcoat was definitely the one at Casely
Hayford Fall/Winter 2015 show. Amazingly fresh are also the details and
accessories as the green over sized sunglasses, while a must have of the season
would definitely be the hot pink coat and the double-breasted coal coat. Hybrid
outerwear, staggered proportions, charred wood prints and broken layers. A
great controlled complexity has become the brand’s signature and has taken the
spitlight. Slumped sweaters, military gear, dandy brocades, sturdy outerwear,
soft-shouldered suits, drooping shirts, together on a greens and oranges, navy
and fuchsia palette. Suit jackets gathered together with graphic knit elements.
Doubtless winner.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Casely Hayford FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Born in 1984, Shangguan Zhe founded he founded SANKUANZ Co. in 2008, one
year after graduation from Xiamen University in China. Sankuanz collections aim to
incorporate the highly contrasted and conflicted elements as well as totally
different cultures in its design. With a mocking spirit in its expression,
SANKUANZ collections offers an option against the so-called upright values in
mainstream ideologies, by presenting a subculture against elitism. For its FW15
collection Zhe presented a lot of interesting creative ideas, from completely never-seen before prints, to a
huge variety of different materials. Blue shirt with crazy prints and spectacular
colorful collar. Yellow sweater with green detailed collar and purple metallic
coat. But let's not forget the grey coat with childish yet so interesting draws
on it. Very cool make-up as well: a simply very fresh and totally
out-of-the-box collection.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Sankuanz by GQ China FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
DAY FOUR
Starting last day of London Collections: Men we find E. Tautz as first
lined up show in the early morning. Opening with an excerpt from Pope John Paul
II Tautz’s voice against violence, was strongly spread with a neutral grey
palette with traditional textures of coats, jackets and suits. Relaxed turn-up
trousers and heavy herringbone tweed. Parkas and shirting detailed with pockets.
Make-up was also pure and clean, together with hair brushed back. The proof
that elegance and style of the ancients never fails to surprise.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
E. Tautz FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Down the last day of LC: M Craig Green’s Fall/Winter 2015 presented a
collection charged with fragments of familiar clothes. Very interesting were
the black and white silhouettes as well as the amazing navy green sweater with
a huge dot in the middle. Pristine white shirts and jersey separates,
cut, braided and pulled to hug the models' frail bodies on one side. Solid,
layered-up outerwear in black and deep olive green on the other. Favorite looks
are definitely the ones dealing with the red palette: red socks, red pants and
a red interesting T-shirt with long sleeves.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Craig Green FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
The so called “Areas of Fresh” Katie Eary FW15 collection presented an emblematic number of post-pop cultured looks rich of details. Metallic lurex turtle necks, brain-like caps and had make up that bore striking resemblance to KAWS’ toys. Brilliant shining colors, especially the orange and the hot pink. Woolen pencil trousers, quilted cashmere lumberjack shirts, fur trimmed parkas and neoprene sweaters. With its double both wearable and high fashion Eary combines different patterns and colors as well as the materials blending them in together. Much loved were the daring coats and the T-shirts that we would immediately wear. This brand definitely knows how to impress!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Katie Eary FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Right before the beginning of the
show, the big bronze curtains has being shut, closing the grey winter Londoner
sky outside the location, letting with this move Christopher Bailey’s Burberry
Prorsum focus on the long pursued theme which is the weather. This season’s
collection was inspired by the dandy decadence that marked the end of the
Sixties' menswear explosion adding to it plenty of new details: leopard-prints,
florals, fringed blankets, faded tapestry. Varieties of colors all the way from
yellow to red brown and classic Burberry shades as well as really retro chic
sunglasses and shoes. New in the collection were the scarves which were
completely different from what we would normally expect from a Burberry
collection. Clare Maguire was invited to sing four songs while models were
coming down the runway right to the finale, when the ceiling opened and raining
both models and audience in a dazzle of falling silver. Mesmerizing!
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Burberry Prorsum FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Right after the big event that Burberry created, all
attention was focused on Xander Zhou “Wild West” invitation to her Fall/Winter
2015 collection. Rich in destroyed denim, fringe, fur and leather. Zhou’s show
was really full of details among the fabrication techniques. Playful denim
shirt worn on top of amazing dark jeans and flattering black boots.
Out-standing jeans detailed ponchos interestingly put on models as well as the
very detailed colorful coats and long shirts. «It reminds me of the time when I studied Chinese traditional painting
as a child, which might have been the starting point of the creative path that
has taken me here», Zhou added. Fabulous look was the full white outfit:
white boots with black platform are for sure a must have this season as well as
the skinny white pants, the spectacular white knitted sweater and the beige
black leather detailed backpack.
 |
| ©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Xander Zhou FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
One of our favorite presentation as well as one of our
all times favorite designer came up that afternoon. From its amazing classy
black pants to crazy illusional black and white caro jackets, Tom Ford’s FW15
collection presented his latest menswear collection to small groups of
journalists in his London showroom. The black and white caro coat as well as
the denim well made and absolutely wearable fur coat are definitely some of our
favorite highlights. Brilliant sunglasses and awesome denim washed jeans.
Masterpiece of the collection would definitely be the black and white illusion
printed one-button jacket. Simply outstanding!
 |
©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Tom Ford FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Tiger of Sweden definitely showed its teeth. The first
model was already halfway down the catwalk before the music kicked in, a blur
of sharp black tailoring slashed with stark white socks. Starting from that
exit, most of the looks took energy from it. Contrast blocked sweatshirts and
slick leather sub-layers to slim two-piece suits layered with quilted bombers.
Color-graded knit, lightweight, broken-patterned overcoats, tone-on-tone
Mondrian grid prints and fearsomely high-waisted trousers. They conquered the
runway. And Tiger’s claws seemed definitely pretty sharp!
 |
©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Tiger of Sweden FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
The promised “notion of normal” Fall/Winter collection
was pretty much awaited from a designer who has hardly ever played with
‘normality’ in his shows. But with its zip-scarred tracksuits, disco-glossy
outerwear, hybrid coat/backpack garments and body-hugging shirts and trousers,
Nasir Mazhar opened us to a complete new wardrobe. Interesting metallic details in the
collection like the metallic blue and purple pants as well as the cool black
zippers on top of baggy pants. Lovely metallic hot pink and red shirt on top of
an oversized white plane T-shirt and metallic skinny pants. Favorite look was
definitely the white shirt with leather metallic details. What a better way to
close London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015 showcases.
 |
©RooMXMatez TM 2015
Nasir Mazhar FW15 at London Collections: Men.
|
Timi Letonja - Simone Bronzi
CEO & Founder of RooMXMatez TM - Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM
0 commenti