CRUISING IN WESTMINSTER ABBEY
On June
2nd Gucci presented his 2017 Men’s Cruise collection in Westminster Abby’s
cloister, in London Britain
«If you’re not a fashion die-hard
who's already well-acquainted with the man behind Gucci's latest renaissance,
then it's time to become very familiar. His name is Alessandro
Michele and he's coming for your closet. The designer's to-date collections for
the storied Italian brand have already spawned a slew of must-have items
regular guys and the rich and famous are gladly emptying their wallets for:
kangaroo fur-lined slippers, colourfully embroidered jeans, animal intarsia
sweaters. That's the type of menswear that's unordinary, to say the least - or
used to be. Because it's undeniable that Michele's swervy point of view has had
a massive influence on the fashion world and how people want to dress.
Particularly for style-minded men, his genderless approach to clothes
encourages experimentation with silhouettes and fabrics wholly uncommon in
traditional menswear».
In this collection,
Gucci’s new Creative Director Alessandro Michele, added to his most
recognisable elements - gaudy colours, clothes that mix male and female’s
wardrobes, vintage recalls - some other more British inspired aspects:
Victorian’s ideal of fashion, punk vibes and British private schools uniforms.
About 90 models, men and women - from 2017 all Gucci shows will be unified -
walked down the runway on the traditional British Scarborough Fair ballad,
performed by the Oxford
Michele recalled the pleated
dresses worn by women for tea-time of the 30’s and reproposed them in a bright
pink candy floss shade and in a milk and mint green. Laces and Victorian’s
ribbons, the wide metallic skirts and the large sleeves, compose the gown of a
“modern Genevieve”, the legendary queen, King Arthur’s wife and Lancelot’s
lover.
«This collection is dedicated to those men who are in love with their
wardrobe. Men who like beautiful things and who like to wear different things
or to wear formalwear differently. Every item or detail is precious, refined,
nothing is left to chance. It's a sentiment made crystal clear in the trims and
embellishments - and in the case of denim, acid washing - found on just about
every garment, accessory, and shoe. The men’s wardrobe is like a ritual and I
am fascinated by it and its codes. The codes are not to be cancelled, they have
to be reinvented and repositioned in a different fresco. There is the part of
formalwear which I consider like the father of all the different styles. There
are some punk pieces which are the most romantic part of the collection. When
you are punk you are romantic, because you want to break the rules. And then
there is the preppy/street part which recalls college-wear and is thought for
more relaxed moments. Each of these parts has its own codes and, as always, I
enjoyed putting a sort of confusion among the different codes and languages. The men’s
Cruise collection was an excellent occasion to best depict my idea of
eccentricity. Everything started from my great passion for England
Among the almost
300 guests, actress Elle Fanning, Charlotte Casiraghi, actress Salma Hayek, designers Christopher
Kane and Mary Katrantzou, singer Will.I.Am - who contributed to make the
headphones worn by some models during the show. Guests also have been given a
pair of glasses, with a snake embroidery, in order to observe in 3D the black
and white images of the Westminster Abbey, while being sitting on green
pillows, each of the whom embroidered by Michele with a different figure.
Simone Bronzi
Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM
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