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AMOUR-EN-CAGE

By Saturday, February 13, 2016

Elegance and refinement. These are the words that can comment the beautiful collection of Zuharir Murad at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016. Long dresses, necklines, transparencies and laces draw a red carpet season. Right, because there won’t be a movie star diva who won’t want to wear one of these amazing creations. The pantone shades triumph from rose quartz to that tenuous light blue rebaptised as “Serenity”. Obviously the style is way different from that of Maison Margiela or Viktor & Rolf, here things change, and even if they’re not everyday clothes, wearability is a key point. The goal is to make women feel gorgeous.

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Yellow, light blue, pink, strawberry pink, beiges and white: anything spins around the femininity of the pastel nuances, the couture collection that will wear the next red carpets around the globe. The necklines and the rips dizzying, characterized by audacious transparencies, light and fluctuating fabrics like tulle and silk. Silhouettes enhance the important shoulders, enriched with ruches and frills, while the waistline gets enhanced perfectly by jewel-belts. The long dresses are completely covered in sequin and pearl and crystals fringes, with delicate ton-sur-ton pastel flowers that embroider the most romantic and princely. As well as the ivory wedding dress that closed the show: the sensual bustier opens up the way to a “a-thousand-and-one-night” skirt and train.

The white of the laces, the pink flowers and the leafs that get alive on the magnificent creations, give the entire collection the image of the Zuhair Murad woman: a fairy princess of timeless beauty. In fact, for his SS16 Couture collection Murad gets inspired by the Elizabethan Age, with its majestic clothes sewed and built over complex panier and bustier. As if to enveloped and surrounded by a golden cage, Murad’s creatures proceed solemnly enhancing the silhouettes, which emphasize the feminine curves and a special love for precious embroideries. From the more delicate tints to more intense ones, emerges a strong attention for the decoration as ostentation of luxury and exclusivity, and a revival of styles of the past, which belong to the common imaginary of a femininity refined and protective at the same time, set free though, in this case, by any scruple and constriction.

Mini, midi and maxi are the lengths of the clothes, in shades of white, mauve, silver, powder-sky-blue, pearl, lemon and coral red. While the fabrics adopted in these collection vary from laces to organza, satin, silk, sequin, pearls, tulle, voile, embroideries, Mikado, chiffon and lurex, and are cut in order to obtain shapes like panier, corolla, bell-shaped curved, fluid and tapered. Accessories are: metallic crowns, silver sandals with laces woven around the ankles.

Notorious between the world of the celebrities for having dressed women from Kristen Stewart to Jennifer Lopez after realizing Sofia Vergara’s dressing gown, Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad has seen incrementing the number of requisitions to create similar wedding dresses. His SS16 Couture collection presented in Paris isn’t pointed towards celebrities only, but looks for a wider range of spectators. Short white dresses, white tulle elegant skirt underneath the knees, white lace pants with white tunic, this is how the show starts, to bounce towards dresses with floral prints, wide gowns, short on the front and long at the backside dresses, an amazing pink dress with accessory-rip with silver belt at sight, and silver high-heeled sandals. Siren silhouette in their pastel tones, with embroideries and trains, satin light blue dresses, short embellished cocktail dresses, to head to evening dresses right after, with bright colours and orange shades, and ending up with white dresses, from the malicious evening gown to the tulle dress, to the princely wedding dress of the apparent classic style, as seen with the richly embroidered wide skirt and veil.

«For this summer, Zuhair Murad will be confining the stately silhouettes of his muses in gilded, sun­kissed cages, radiant filters though whose prism femininity is freed of all trace of sentimentality, more fulfilled than ever and in perfect form to wield its power of seduction. Panniers galore in jaunty horsehair will walk in a flowering of artfully rounded volumes suggestive of virtuoso birdcages: structured curves of crinolines, basques, and whalebone forming ethereal cage bars and dazzling, delicately­ flowing openwork. Untrammelled refinement comes in a series of sexy, bouffant minidresses, über­chic tulip skirts, and architectural, show­stopping eveningwear with glamorous red­carpet trains. Charming arbours and bowers of bliss form a blaze of ornament, embroidery spreading its ravishing tendrils over an ecstasy of decorative metal - all loosely enfolding a silhouette upstandingly wreathed in gracious shades of rosewood and raw silk, lavender and celadon, glittering ash, crystal white, or vibrant vermillion. A revelry of plunging backs and necklines in spellbound asymmetry, amplified by abundance of flaring and divine transparency exposes the beguiling enchantment of liberation, where fabric or its absence (a profusion of tulle, organza, silk gazar, crêpe de soie, lace, brocade, guipure, silk chiffon, and more) frames gossamer sensuality. And so to the grand finale, in the guise of an apotheosis: behold the bridal gown, a sumptuous vision the ecstatic focus of every gaze in a luxuriant alliance of queenly carriage and regal train.».

Simone Bronzi
Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM

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Backstage photos courtesy of Zuhair Murad:

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