On the
Parisian catwalks of Men’s Fashion Week, Issey Miyake’s collection for next
Fall/Winter 2016 put men in a wild environment. The nomad lifestyle and the
constant battle against the nature’s elements (wind, snow, ice and rain), let
men learn how to trust his own instinct, in order to survive any hostility. Gaining
from these human instincts, next cold season’s collection identifies a new
sense of elegance and comfort, recreating a relaxed sophistication. Using rough
materials combined with refined fibres, dusty shades which allow little touches
of vivid colours, warm clothes with sportive shapes, simple and lively sweats,
this collection expresses the willingness of the contemporary man to get back
to the primordial life perception.
Voluminous
long coats and pullovers in bordeaux and turquoise shades, created in an
exclusive knit made of a mixture of horsehair and wool strings. Numerous knitwear
pieces follow on the line, with rich and variegated textures, made of mohair
wool, with orange, grey and blue abstract patterns; and oversize jumpers. The design
for these wide/over and relaxed pieces is inspired by the simple and touching
lifestyle of the Mongolian nomads.
The lifestyle
changes gradually in the collection towards a strong urban and sportive look. Termogaphic
pictures of photographer Kenji Hirasawa representing horses are digitally
printed on the jersey and cotton shirts. Cyclist taffeta polyester coats and
parkas, characterized by high-performance quilted inserts and by colourful horseshoe-shaped
embroideries, are worn together with knitted tight pants, of a more sportive
and dynamic style.
The final
section is composed by a series of urban “duty” looks. Amongst them, cotton and
polyester blousons and jacquard pieces with abstract horseshoe-shaped
embellishments; a jacket and a dust coat with the dusty-alike print; wrinkled
corduroy fabrics realized with the traditional tornado tie-dyed technique; light
jackets made pleating-less through stabilizing fabrics. Anything created to be
functional, practical and light, with easy-to-treat cloths, washable and that
do not require ironing. The show closes with a marked rhythm of hyper-light
clothes, made with a special eye and attention for fabrics and the making
process.
«Neonomad: A new type of a nomad; a
wanderer, someone without a fixed sense of belonging, digitally geared man on
the move.», said Yusuke Takahashi,
designer of Issey MiyakeMen. Likewise,
is this sense of the modern man that is always on the move thatTakahashitried to convey. «Where colour was splashed sparingly in
Yusuke Takahashi’s last autumnal output for Issey Miyake Men, it now held
sovereignty, as the aptly labelled “Neonomad” collection revealed in Paris.
Inspired by the nomadic lifestyle that remains a deeply-rooted component of
Mongolian culture, Takahashi divulged a fabric-focused ensemble, sectioned
three ways, in the form of durable, warming knitwear, equine-centred sportswear
and woven streetwear and tailoring.».
«Each season, there are apparently a dozen or soIssey Miyakecollections that we, the press, don’t
get to see. They distil the often-obtuse influences of the main line into
palatable edits. They do a lot of the pleats, for which they are frequently so
well known, and which frequently fill most of their stores. It may be a cash
cow, but the trouble with something as ubiquitous as Miyake’s pleasing pleats is
that you get bored. As a designer and as an observer. So, how to experiment
without alienating? How to offer something new without losing your identity?
That’s the issue Issey Miyake’s menswear designer Yusuke Takahashi tackles
every season. Generally, Takahashi eschews pleats, which is a wise decision.
Instead, he founds the house’s menswear collections in fabric technology and a
sense of ease, the ethos of pleats, without the folding. For Fall, a cluster of
scrubland grass around the runway providing a nuance of the alien. It felt a
little bit spaghetti Western, especially against the concrete architecture of
the Palais de Tokyo, a French civic center with a Japanese-inspired name. How’s
that for travel already?».
It's a story about two room mates who just love living their lives. Join our journey. «To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.»
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