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REWIND AND RESTART

By Tuesday, February 23, 2016

It’s the black suit, the starting point of the creation of the Duckie Brown’s new collection. From a clean and basic sketch, Daniel Silver and Steven Cox reconstructed the world of the brand by getting back to male wardrobe basics. Six looks in six different male fabrics that spin around oversized double-breasted jackets, white shirt transformed into outerwear pieces and loose-fit pants.

White, black, grey and navy blue are the shades that colour the wool, woollen cloth and cotton fabrics; while the only accessories adopted in the collection are the sneaker shoes.

©RooMXMatez TM 2015
«Founded in 2001 by creative life-partners Steven Cox and Daniel Silver, Duckie Brown has consciously and successfully sought to establish and re-establish itself year upon year; the only concrete facet of the brand lies in its consistent ability to question the very fabric of the world of fashion. For their FW16 contribution, Cox and Silver graced New York with a reduction and refinement of runway staples. Fleshing out what began as one sketch of a black suit, the designers displayed six essential looks, minimal in palette. Commenting on the decision to diverge from the regularity of more extensive runway collections, Cox stated; “[it] is to show people that we are small.” With the brand having recently distilled the design team down to consist of only Cox and Silver, this seems a fair sentiment. The collection comprised of the conventional design choices, shaped with Duckie Brown nuance. An optic white refashioning of the dress shirt came disguised as a sports jacket, paired with charcoal trousers in generous cut. A wide-fitting blazer followed, sat just beneath the hips, contrasted by a slimmer silhouette in the leg, whilst the next model exhibited a peacoat in midnight with thick collars, worn over a shirt in a high-collar, partially covering the chin and cheeks. The designers upheld the continuity of elegant formalwear with a straight-cut overcoat featuring slouched sleeves, cropped just ahead of the wrist. Cox and Silver’s small, serene show drew its curtains to a close with a dressier take on the utility jacket – a polar-white hooded shirt featuring subtle workwear detailing.».

If during men´s fashion week in Paris Valentino showed an 83-piece collection, during New York Fashion Week Men’s, Duckie Brown send six looks to the runway. «Donna Karan built an empire with the idea of six easy pieces. Duckie Brown's highly edited FW16 collection took that notion and made six easy looks. The duo has been fighting rumors that the label is on the verge of closure and with a collection of six looks, this did not squash those rumors. However, if this is a turning point for the label, it's a strong position: make less filler clothes that are mediocre and make what you're best at.».

Simone Bronzi
Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015


Backstage photos courtesy of FuckingYoung:

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

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1 commenti

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