In a
mix of longs and shorts, black, charcoal grey, shades of kaki, primary red,
pearl grey and white characterize the dresses. The enveloping and sensual
cocktail dresses and gowns determine the direction of the Haute Couture collection
of Alexandre Vauthier, who adopted polish, suede, opaque leather, silk,
organza, lurex, lace, tulle, cotton, sequin, and crystals as the main fabrics. Anything
couldn’t leave out the high heeled sandals, the tied over-knee-length boots and
the crystal buckles as the main accessories.
Alexandre Vauthier really gets his
customer, plying fashions with an urban sex appeal that is germane to Parisian
nightlife dressing. «It’s like a postcard
of the Paris woman, and this season, we really threw in all the codes into the
equation, the red lipstick, the oversize tuxedo». This season, Alexandre Vauthier thinks that less is more. Not in terms
of styling but of key pieces for this Couture collection. The long evening flou
dress, either in khaki or black, the military inspired jackets and the cargo
pants are the main protagonists of this season and play a key role for each of
the outfits from the show. High black suède cuissards are the main shoes,
giving sexiness to dresses and oversized jackets. Black, khaki and red are the
principal colors, whose materials are refined and empowered
through animalier transparent prints, patent leather or nestled with
Swarovski details.
There was a striking presence of red
but never on models’ lips. Instead, the color exploded on a patent leather
jumpsuit boasting maxi zip pockets, while oversize silhouettes skewed military
through Vauthier’s handsome take on vintage École Polytechnique uniforms, which
Parisian girls like to pirate from their boyfriends’ wardrobes, he noted. They
were beautifully cut, and also came in a sleeveless version for a sassier,
more contemporary look, confirming Vauthier’s reputation as a precision
tailor.
«Indeed, once again, and this for his
eight Haute Couture season, Alexandre Vauthier decided to collaborate with the
crystals brand on the collection. Long draped V neck dresses become precious
with the help of the Austrian crystal House, which has a long history in Haute
Couture since its very beginning, from Charles Frederick Worth to Jeanne
Lanvin. Last but not least, the Ray-Ban Aviator glasses give an eccentric but
original touch to the whole show. The creative exuberance of the designer has
as a result an emphatic femininity: the Vauthier woman is powerful, strong
and without boundaries. This collection felt lighter than usual, and
less constraining. The dresses didn’t always hug the body, seducing instead
with a bare shoulder, a leg-revealing cut or via the
intricate construction, with Vauthier focusing on sensual, hand-laid
pleats done in collaboration with specialty atelier Lognon.».
Bringing a harder edge to his
couture creations, Alexandre Vauthier’s brand thrives with the direction that
makes every collection, like crystals, clear-cut.
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