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MAUVE EN MOUVEMENT

By Saturday, February 06, 2016

Mauve en mouvement. Yes, because mauve is the shade that invaded the catwalk at Giorgio Armani Pirivè’s Spring Summer 2016 show, during the Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris. From lilac to wisteria, to the most intense violet purple, attenuated by black, with grey and metallic glaring effects, thanks to the ton-sur-ton sequins; mauve is the real protagonist of this collection, deliberately inspired to the Forties’ divas, but that celebrates the femininity of today’s women. Fluid gowns, fluctuating skirts and pants which seem moved by a soft breeze. Frills that accentuate thrust and freedom and innervate long pants, bustier dresses, tops and gowns. Short jackets to match with flounced or precious-waves embroidered gowns. PVC and crystals tops become voluptuous spiral drawings directly onto the naked skin. And again, tulle mini-dresses with maxi sequin ruches and long plissé organza gowns.

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Colours are, as mentioned before, mostly characterized by all of the shades of mauve and black; while the fabrics used in the collection are tulle, organza, silk, sequin, pearls, crystals, chiffon, PVC, crinoline, lurex and crocodile. This kind of clothes vary, according to the shape of the piece and silhouette: parkas and over-pea-coats are worn with long pants, with frills or small shorts; jackets are short and matched with maxi skirts or gowns. Evening dresses are composed by bustier and flounced gowns, or choose A-shaped silhouettes. To complete the outfits, PVC strap-banded shoes to wear with tulle jet-embroidered socks; mesh ankle boots; maxi jewellery with big colourful precious stones; micro bucket-handbags and crocodile handbags; small jewel-minaudières; nacre/mother-of-pearl coloured glasses.

Informal, professional and formal, three styles of different dresses in a single collection, but all perfectly balanced. Only Armani can create this magic, and it’s no wonder that Hollywood actresses fly to Paris to take part to his shows. From the short frilled skirts matched with shirt jackets, till the evening gowns, Giorgio Armani Privè’s show is a pure marvel, between the shades of the clothes and the fabrics: it’s definitely clear, that the long dresses and gowns are the centrepiece, of the whole collection; and since next month there will be the Oscar night, again, it’s no wonder if we will see some of these clothes walking the red carpet.

All the shorts and bermuda shorts with precious fabrics are the luxurious yet informal style of the youthful woman that wears Armani, then there are all the delicate wisteria-shades dresses, which are perfect also for any formal occasion, as rites or ceremonies. Amazing are the transparent-fabrics pants, as well as the silk jackets matched to wide and black skirts. Magnificent is the lurex-knit grey overall to wear with a black satin jacket. And at the end of the show, wide skirted long black or white gowns and feather-light-seeming single-shouldered evening dresses.
Giorgio Armani Haute Couture’s SS16 show in Paris is one of those destined to take a seat in our memories and never leave. King Giorgio enchants anybody with the charming pastel shades of his creations. Suits, dresses, gowns, tops, shirts, bermuda shorts, coats and all the other Haute Couture pieces are declined in an extraordinary palette that gleans from the delicate mauve shades. The feminine elegance dresses itself of incomparable romanticism with the looks of the brand, impalpable and seductive in their light see-through fabrics.

At Paris Fashion Week’s Couture catwalk shows, Giorgio Armani brought on set an amazing collection, hosted with thunderous applauses. Between two wings made by the viewers’ seat, models walked down the runway enveloped by thin layers of organza and silk, in looks enlivened by romantic frills, and illuminated by gracious mauve glares. Once again, the inspiration for this collection seems to be oriental, as well as last year’s Haute Couture line. Bamboo and nature themes, though, leave place to a colour very much beloved in Orient, absolute protagonist of the show. The pastel shades of colours, a very delicate version of lavender and wisteria, dominated the mostly monochromatic Haute Couture show. Perhaps it is not a colours that anyone could wear, but what is sure is that it bestows sublime beauty to the sartorial creations of the Maison.

Front row special guests are Miroslava Duma, Olga Kurylenko, Juliette Binoche, Giuliano Pisapia, Gwei Lun Mei, Kyle Eastwood, Isabelle Huppert, Max Benitz, Giuseppe Tornatore, Iggy Azalea and Bianca Brandolini D'Adda. While the daywear remains an Armani-style classic, for the evening the couture dresses itself with its usual elegance, in order to reach the perfect princess-effect with embroidered clothes and single-shoulders with tulle layering. Hair also play a big game in this collection. Armani chose a precise style, proposed on all of the looks. A soft waved 40’s bob cut, exhibited in various lengths: from under the chin, to the shoulders. The hair colour is definitely dark with a line positioned in the middle of the head, centred.

«Couture, as we know, is all about the craft, and the most explicit way of showing that off is through eveningwear because it dazzles and it shines of expertise, time, and knowledge and it belongs to an extravagant world that not all that many of us get to inhabit. Armani Privè is all about that world, and if you thought you had seen all the possible variations and interpretations of a gown, you're wrong. Mr. Armani will have another up his sleeve, and then some more too. But where couture so easily lends itself to a notion of Cinderella and fairytale dresses, Armani wanders along slightly more classic and conservative realms, his more an old-world Hollywood, a point he compounded this evening as Veronica Lake waves accompanied every look as they wafted down the catwalk. Because that is exactly what happened (and happens) at Armani, so light and delicate were the offerings. It all shimmered and sparkled, as it always does and as it always should. At every turn, there was an apparent sense of youthfulness among the ruffles and flounces and intricate beadwork. If you're an Armani customer, this will have suited you just fine.».

Simone Bronzi
Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM

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