Providing nothing short of a
complete visual spectacle, London-based label KTZ offered a look at a collection of graphically
captivating menswear during LCM. Designer Marjan Pejoski put together an attention grabbing aesthetic combining
traditional American collegiate designs, with aspects of style catered
to the futuristic and forward thinking.
This season KTZ serves up another
badass collection at London Collections: Men for 2016’s Fall/Winter season.
With inspirations coming from contrasting influences from baseball to Russian
futurism the collection is aesthetically impressive, while maintaining an
unexpectedly wearable quality. The majority of the collection features baseball
and varsity influences in an array of black varsity jackets and bombers with
bright slogans and imagery emblazoned across the back. Embroidery can be seen down
the sleeves and in sporadically places patches, while each look is styled with
impressive wood soled platform laced boots that pay homage to the American
traditional baseball boot. Some sweaters, trousers and bombers have even been
cleverly deconstructed and re-attached with the clever use of lacing, to give
the appearance that the garment is a baseball.
A grouping
of outerwear garments included intricately crafted baseball inspired varsity
jackets, fur detailed pea coats, patchwork jackets, double-breasted coats and a
Sherpa poncho that heavily evoked UK nationalism.
AMCK twins Jaco and Nico Solis wear
the standout look of the show. They stride down the runway in unison draped in
oversized suede Union Jack capes, covering equally engaging black and white and
red layered sports inspired looks.
Using few
colours, the hue palette of the show allowed for the crazily detailed and
structured pieces to prove very ostentatious without being plainly bright.
America’s favourite past time was intertwined with a host of pieces that
featured completely oversized stitching that mimicked that of a baseball. A
selection of creatively charged MLB inspired pants, headwear, gloves and even
bats were mixed in to KTZ’s signature avant-garde streetwear philosophy.
Retro art, eccentric 80’s inspired style and American athleticism all collided
on the London runway to produce Pejoski’s magnificently strange vision of
menswear.
Vision Culture was the
buzzword at KTZs FW16 collection. A smorgasbord of graphics patterns
complemented the expansive collection full of references from sports to a call
for patriotism. These are clothes not for the wallflower but for those who
endear themselves to the Instagram army of in-your-face looks.
Scholars are in disagreement about
when Russian Futurism began - it was sometime around the beginning of the 20th
century. No matter when it happened, sure is that futurists were
forward-thinkers. Modernity’s speed compelled them to embrace it and what it
wrought: progressive ideas, technological advancements and the abandonment of
concepts and art that were considered to be artefacts of a previous (super-boring)
world.
Set to
a scintillating, robo-synth soundtrack courtesy of Belgian DJ duo Nid
and Sancy, every moment of KTZ’s Leather and PVC laced runway show offered up a
provocative statement piece to ogle at.
Pushkin, Tolstoy and Dostoevsky were
considered relics and, said in the ‘Futurist Manifesto’, they should be «heaved overboard from the steamship of
modernity.». Mix that with Americana and you get KTZ’s FW16 line-up. Scarlet
red, black and white vertical stripes were slapped onto fur coats, leather
coats, hoodies and voluminous trousers. Similar colours are employed in a
KTZ-style, hand-woven jacket to create a compelling pattern worthy of any
Futurists’ standards.
Injections of Americana were seen throughout:
baseball-laced trousers and jackets, American-football helmets and
bowling-style shoes. Athleticism was a complementary injection; geometric
patterns were softened because of this: conspicuously tropes of a Russian
Futurist origin were plastered across jumpers, tops with distinctive
typographical elements from the Russian language. Pejoski’s revised edition of
Futurism would do David Burliuk and his comrades proud.
Our absolute favourites were the
coats. The sporty vibe is what stood out in the collection. Furthermore we the
oversized sunglasses, the detailed caps, the coats in various colours as well
as all the prints on the jackets and trousers. Not to mention, the green, black
and white long coat with written details in front and the basketball-y pants in
orange, black and white was simply amazing.
Timotej Letonja - Simone Bronzi
CEO & Founder of RooMXMatez TM -
Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM
It's a story about two room mates who just love living their lives. Join our journey. «To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.»
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