«The Space age - and this does not make sense if you speak of Versace. Track
suits made out of fibre optic fabrics running in the dark around the three
aisles of the venue - seriously? Small space debris - here it may come a slight
headache! All that sounds weird to the Versace’s aficionados and, in fact, it
may be. Yes guys, this time is not about cover boys, sultry toughies and
sexiness - Ok, put your hands up if you did not pass out! Versace’s looking
ahead to the future, or maybe a next level.».
Starting with some yuppies
wearing Prince of Wales suits embellished with eyelets and grommets, things get
broadly futuristic with backpacks, some aluminium foil-like trousers, and
metallic shearling collar denim jackets. «The
colour scheme is a crescendo: the beige of the stones, the gray of the moon,
the white and the pitch black counterbalance the eye-popping lilac, Neptune
blue and shiny silver.». Donatella focuses on the top, emphasizing
shoulders with cropped leather jackets embroidered with patches and unlined
raw-edge cachemire coats almost floating around the torso.
In a
universe far, far away, the Versace man emerges in iridescence and he is
spectacular. After a few seasons looking back at the Versace archives to help
move her family's label forward, Donatella Versace looks to the future and the
result is very good. Tailoring and sport mix well with subtle patterns paired
with masculine outerwear, whether they're flamboyant like a fur coat or a
cropped motorcycle jacket or more utilitarian like a puffer.
Donatella always infuses
Versace’s treasure troves with a subversive élan to envision her lusty
aesthetic of masculinity each season but, this collection seems to be a “rift”
between being and becoming. «This is a
collection for men who are totally real and connected with the future»,
stated the designer. Anyway, if there will be any important change for Versace,
this is a good start.
The
expansive show was modern in every regard from the all-white backdrop to the
new Versace logo, which looks futuristic but also quite sexual. The sex factor
here, as one would be surprised to hear, is quite toned down. There was nary an
ab or bicep on display, instead there were GoPro's strapped to the models
chiseled bodies to capture every moment of their adventures. In all, a very
strong collection from Versace that was entirely Donatella's vision of where
the label is now and where it is going in the future.
«Blue LED lights woke up the squared runway at Versace yesterday,
as models paced in sportswear with glow-effect accessories and
paneling. As the fluorescent spectacle came to a close, the house lights
made way for a neatly tailored grey suit, paired with a white polo neck and
long, iridescent silver trench coat. The subtly intergalactic theme took a more
urban direction as biker jackets dressed with shearling and piping detail
appeared, while a wool double-breasted pea coat provided a more casual take on
outerwear. Mohair sweaters were dramatic with overarching turtlenecks and
sleeves and when paired with high-top footwear, a strong ‘90s influence was
apparent.».
Versace’s men Fall/Winter 2016 show brought us in an interstellar
dimension with a space-inspired collection.It
is fresh, with models jogging on the dark runway wearing fiber clothes. Oufits declaring
tight and dry silhouettes, a vague 60’s scent in the air, silver shirts and jumpers
and coats in various shades from powder blue to lavender and crème. Yet again,
coats in either white or a blue and silver blade, while denims play with
constellations.
Donatella Versace is queen of
strong, masculine silhouettes as much as she is of a more-is-more attitude. For
this collection she most heavily applied the latter to those jackets that were
adorned with multi-coloured micro-diamantes, leaving traces of old
school Versace glam. Not to mention those purple bombers with black
detailing, backed up with foil-effect shirts and PVC trousers. A wardrobe
fit for a space odyssey, Versace style.
Watching the show it felt like the
inspirations were galaxy, night vision, lovely colours, silver linings. Why?
The beginning was so galactic yet so clean with the music and the lighting, which
were both mesmerizing. The fashion show displayed us a variety of different
jackets, accessories, bags, shoes, pants, leather jackets. Absolute favourites
were the silver and blue metallic jackets and the space, galaxy inspired bags
with really bright and interesting prints all over. Top look must definitely be
the blue sweater, blue bag, white shoes, white bag: incredibly cosy.
It being a dynamic man, is something we can immediately understand when
the lights still aren’t spotting on the show. The lights-shaped run opens the
doors to a variegated, jaunty yet luminous collection. Pearl grays, trench coats,
bow-ties and silver backpacks, pastel shades which romantically vary from lilac
to a more soave light blue. This time Versace seduces on multiple levels by
sending on the Milan’s Fashion Week’s catwalk a mixed line-up, and with that
touch of rashness that ever since distinguish the name of the brand between
tradition and modernity, past and future.
Timi Letonja - Simone Bronzi
CEO & Founder
of RooMXMatez TM - Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM
It's a story about two room mates who just love living their lives. Join our journey. «To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.»
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