Sartorial pinstriped suits with comfy turned-up pants leaving the ankle
naked, leather and suede jackets combined with the classic shaped pants or the
tight slim leather trench coats, or yet the wisteria violet/lilac
double-jackets suit worn by model Lucky Blue Smith, along with the same shade
of shoes, surely hit the jackpot as the most outstanding pieces of the
collection. And again, Bordeaux blazer and pants combined with a black t-shirt,
foulard around the neck and maxi Bordeaux handbag to complete the look; while
red-orange pants are worn with a same shaded leather jacket, with grey t-shirt
and shoes underneath, master this elegant outfit.
It’s all about combination and colours matching, the key of Berluti’s
Fall/Winter 2016 collection presented at Paris Fashion Week last week.
Different shades of colours mixed and integrated one another with style and
elegance. A red coat can vary in multiple shades, better choose a dark reddish
purple red to wear with ease, and know for sure it’ll look great with a black
jumper and a pair of black pants, if you want to maintain the levels of
elegance high. Same thing for Bordeaux pants, to wear with a black pullover and
black shoes. If instead, during winter you don’t want to wear a trench coat or
a coat over the dark grey suit, or the pinstriped suit, you can always combine
it with a dark green leather jacket. If you prefer more classic colours, black
is a well working long-lasting companion for men, maybe divvy the total black
look up with the accessories, as for instance a Bordeaux handbag, while to
complete the total black look effect, a black leather jacket as outerwear
piece.
Luxury and comfort, proper of the sportswear world, meet the ultimate
sartorial overlay in Berluti’s new collection, which proposes the jersey cloth,
elevating the more simple fabric of the jogging pants to a higher level, through
the adoption of luxurious yarns, united to an excellent sartorial mastery.
Jersey, which is present throughout the entire collection, is adopted also in
the sartorial blazers. Redundant layers, linings and
shoulder pads are eliminated in order to give space to the more comfortable
knits and sweaters, while ingenious cuts secure the linearity and the precision
of the classic tailoring. Blazers are combined with tight skinny jogging pants
to create a new mix between the formal wardrobe and the free-time clothes. There
are no shirts in the new collection. All of the t-shirts are created through
knitwear. The versatility of the sweaters gets highlighted from various
necklines: collars, round-necks, v-necks and Polo’s. Proportions are less
formal. From bombers to parkas, the coats shorten themselves, presenting more squared
shapes than last seasons: only the trench coats overcome the knee length. The set-in
sleeve characterizes most of the jackets, where sleeves are extended till the
neck, guaranteeing more freedom of movements. All the collars present a making
process, which boasts an innovative folding technique. Fabrics include
talcum-opaque ultra-light waterproof leather, kangaroo laminated leather used
in both unlined jackets and feather quilted anoraks, un-oilskins nabuck and
laminated cashmere used for the coats. The suits and outerwear cloths include
technical Japanese spool knitting obtained with the matching of cotton, wool
and mohair, while the evening velvet suit blazer is made out of pure silk. The various
kinds of jerseys have been weaved in four different weights and densities of
soft cashmere, which vary from 300 to 700 grams. Jumpers are characterized by twelve
different shades of weaved cashmere. This micro-multicolour effect has been
used also for the tweeds, imitating the Nineteen Century wools, which were
obtained from various left-over’s knits. Here, the cashmere mix are dyed into
the various shades of colours.
Not
only an iconic brand of the more sophisticated male tradition, but a brand
appreciated also by new generations. This sounds like Alessandro Sartori’s
ambition for Berluti, according the his new collection, which is always
luxurious, but more easy, with a cast of younger models, picked by their
peculiar personal style. Anything started from a travel that the creative
director of the Lvmh’s belonging’s brand made by himself to Marfa, Texas. The sun-discoloured
sand, the bushy spontaneous grasses, along with the work of the world-known tattoo-artist
Scott Campbell, have given the inspiration to Berluti’s FW16 collection.
The
first signal of this Berluti’s “young” turn appeared on the runway with the
artistic tattoos created on the leather surface of bags and shoes, aside from
the skin of some of the models. «Scars,
piercings and tattoos. I’ve always considered the leather used to make Berluti
shoes and bags as human skin. When it came to creating a
modern, colourful and youthful new collection for Berluti for the winter
season, I could imagine no better collaborator than Scott Campbell. His
evocative designs hark back to the ancient heritage of early civilisation while
looking futuristic in their clean lines», said Berluti’s Creative Director Alessandro Sartori.
Shapes introduce informal proportions, and a balance
between softness and hardness of the silhouettes, soft but with volume. Tops are
squared no matter how the model is or its length, while coats, bomber jackets
or sartorial blazers fall naturally over the shoulders. Carrot fit pants, made
out of mohair fabric, also available in wool jersey, distinguish themselves by
a short cut that leave out the ankles naked. A single cut gives life to bust
and kimono-alike sleeves, which characterize the lapel-less coats, jackets and
sweaters.
Colours remind us to the
desert shades: scorpion black, prickly pear, stony shades of reds, salted lake
white, tar grey, rust orange, buffalo brown, cactus-flower violet, petrol blue,
desert grass green shades and wood bark. Berluti has also thought of a new
sneaker type for the winter season: open air, which has more of a running-show profile
with rubber sole. All the shoes present copper reinforcement elements on both
tips and heel.
The rustic tones did much to
ground the otherwise exclusive looks, and Sartori found within this collection
a well-balanced fusion of richness and reserve. It was a wonderful collection in quiet luxury and if Berluti's corporate
owner is not (legally) allowed to purchase anymore shares of Hermes, Sartori is
giving Mr. Arnault the next best thing.
It's a story about two room mates who just love living their lives. Join our journey. «To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.»
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