Fendi walked
Milan Men’s Fashion Week catwalks with its Fall/Winter 2016 collection, which
opened with a winding staircase and a surrounding intimately domestic scenario.
The love shack vibes were really
cemented when the first model strode down the runway (/carpet) clad
in an extremely luxurious (and one assumes, extremely expensive) dressing gown.
Male silhouettes turns soft and comfortable with
belted coats enveloping as a nightgown. Shirts extend themselves and the
outerwear has cosy volumes, while pullovers look like a patchwork of beloved
offcuts; long and loosen jumpers, while the intertwined bands draw lines on
coats and jackets. To complete the looks, long scarves around models’ necks and
pants with a more relaxed size range.
The organic
textures require tactile explorations, whilst the square-motives, stolen from
plaids and blankets, give visual rhythm when melted onto long sleeved shirts
and felts or when transformed into inlay works on fur and rams. As it always
happens at Fendi’s, nothing is at it appears: furs seem like fabrics and
fabrics seem like furs.
Ironic comics
elements on coats and jackets, together with silk and neoprene bandanas, ram
fur hats, fur slippers and trekking-detailed sneakers. Accessories are oversize
ram fur shoppers; soft to almost pet and cuddle, the “Peek-a-boo in Selleria”
bags are garnished with #FendiFaces; backpacks are big and capacious. The
colours palette is warm and comforting: organic shades of brown, green, grey
and black blended into dark textures with intense strokes of red, yellow and
light blue.
Silvia Vetturini Fendi reinterprets
in a luxury key the more classic bed-wear. The result is surprising: the mink
fur coat envelops like a towelling robe, tuxedoes become cocooning as a pyjama,
evenings suits chooses the silhouette of a sensual petticoat, while the leather
caban coats extends itself as a smoking jacket. Marquetry, graphics and nuances
games, obtained with the shibori technique and the tie-dye made in Japan,
enhance the artesian savoir-faire of the Maison.
«Homeliness is synonymous with roominess» a line from Fendi’s show notes, which ran true
with their FW16 collection’s habitat: at the back you had a spiral staircase
upholstered in fur (even the hand rail), which continued down the catwalk like
some plush carpet. When you boast the world’s first fur atelier
(as Fendi do in their new Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana
location) you’re bound to cover the walls in the material. It was
homely and cosy, a preceding indication of the textural collection that
was to come. Ease and comfortability were elements salient with
Venturini’s aesthetic, very luxurious, very-Fendi.
Fendi’s men wears comfy
fashion, almost “robe de chambre”-style: soft spongy outerwear that look like
home-gowns and hairy slippers at his feet. The brand’s gentleman wears a
relaxed elegance. But that’s not it. Fendi embellishes him with ironic bags,
covered in fake lemon yellow fur or with emoticons details: perfect combination
for another must-have accessory for next year’s cold season, the bowler-hat.
Not to mention, the Prince of Wales fabric declined for blazers and pants: a
well working evergreen.
Comic-book characters, popping up
here and there out of breast patch-pockets, jumpers and Selleria Peekaboo bags,
were present - #FENDIfaces, they were named. For Venturini home is where
the haute is, and this was conveyed with a lush softness: coats were wrapped
with belts and two-piece suits were furred-up, but also looked like they were
made of a woven fabric. Here was a story of chillin’ at home cocooned in warmth forget your onesies, Fendi are talking
fur slippers and silk pyjamas (a glass of crisp scotch comes
optional). Fendi, but proper chill.
Our favourite piece from this
collection is the blue and black long coat. It is for sure anybody’s must have
in their wardrobe. The details on the pants, the key chains, the hair and
make-up on the models, the colourful details on the bags and every piece they
walked out made the collection stand out during this season’s Milan’s Fashion
Week. Also memorable were the slippers that models wore instead of shoes which
were a good mix between adorable and classy at the same time. You can clearly
see that they played with colours materials and fabrics, from leather to silk,
which guaranteed the collection to be even more interesting and worth watching.
Pyjama outfits, worn with nonchalance and hairy slippers at his feet.
Fendi’s man is homemaker. «From our home
houses we work, research, you journalists write. Nowadays cinemas, restaurants
and gyms with personal trainers get brought to us directly at home»,
explains Silvia Venturini Fendi. So if life crosses the line of “private”, why
shouldn’t the “private” enter our lives? It doesn’t only exist the sexes
contamination. Furthermore, in these insecurities and scariness times, when we
don’t gather around the fireplace, we still need that warmth to guide us
outside.
Long live the outerwear transformed from plaids then! An ironic collection,
but in style.
Timi Letonja - Simone Bronzi
CEO & Founder of RooMXMatez TM - Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM
It's a story about two room mates who just love living their lives. Join our journey. «To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.»
0 commenti