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#MANGAPUNK

By Friday, January 22, 2016

Inspiring and creative two say two words. Who would have thought to put Japanese cartoon prints in a fashion collection? Well Dean and Dan did. A collection full of plenty of outstanding pieces: the printed cherry red parka and the silver metallic coat, as well as our favourite, the black leather jacket with neon green details, walked out by model Benjamin Benedek.

«There was not a real starting point for Dean and Dan to develop Dsquared2 FW16 but an agglomeration of inspirations, well mixed, of course, but rather inconsistent with each other. D2’s ever-present hot cowboy walked away from the catwalk, at least, for this time. Hip hop patchwork baggy jeans, Japanese manga and sakura cherry blossom as leading patterns, long Goemon’s hakama, 007 smoking jackets, sequin skirts and combat boots, precious ramage embroidered on shirts, tartan bomber jackets and Scottish kilts. Size matters for Dean and Dan, and the massive outerwear pieces are the proof. Structured great coats with wide shoulders and immense collars are representative of Dsquared2 winter fashion. No fur inserts here.».

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An inedited mix, a travel between the Great Britain and Japan, two cultures that perfectly merge together throughout the adoption of denim, leather and graphics. Dsquared2’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection enhances volumes and shapes. On the runway parade metallic silvered nylon coats, oversized anoraks and jacquard bombers with satin-kimonos-inspired embroidered fabrics. Multiple layering games, as the long wool coats combined with strong shaded quilted jackets and with turned-ups shirts. Kilts worn over large baggy pants and jeans, which add a graphic effect to the looks. Denim printed tartans or silk and wool, drop till the knee or the ankles, reminding us to  Japanese warriors or clerical tunics.

Black satin ninja warriors inspired shirts and sweaters, anoraks with Japanese ideograms applied as decoration. Three-dimensional flowers-shaped pearls embroideries on poplin t-shirts, latex bombers and pants playing with zips. Manga culture influences exclusive prints for satin parkas, jeans jackets and accessories as the maxi backpacks. Green and fluorescent pink square studs cover the leather jackets.

Iconic floral Japanese drawings appear over denims. Wide baggy jeans with patchwork details. Shoes enhancing the collection’s themes: big boots with trekking laces are worn together with kilts; Manga printed laced shoes with white or black tips and consistent soles.

Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2 were strong showing Asian models, bringing the idea home while grunge and punk influences abounded throughout the collection. The strongest looks were the ones that showcased the duo's tailoring skills with slim and body enhancing cuts and silhouettes.

Amazing is also how Dean and Dan always stay true to the brand, they always show jeans as well as their classic world known details in every piece they make. For sure everyone who knows a tiny bit about fashion would recognize someone wearing Dsquared2 from fifty meters distance. This obviously makes a brand stand out and memorable.

In contrast with the show’s mood but at the same time in perfect synergy, for the next cold season the tendency of a very clean, cured, linear and very shiny manicure proposes itself again, and it is obtained using a buffer.

In the last day of Milan Men’s Fashion week the collection signed by Caten twins has been furnished by a very precise style, which the maison revealed not too long before the show, by using the official hashtag (same as the whole collection’s name): #MANGAPUNK. Obviously, the inspiration comes from the orient, colours are vibrant yet important, while the shapes and drawings essential and clean. Everything, though, has been followed by a more determined and strong touch: the typical punk world.

The must have piece of the collection is then clear: the plissé skirt, as proposed in both long, medium and short versions, attached only to a half of the trousers belt line and a closed a little bit more towards the middle forming a sort of extra large Bermuda pant. Total black, of course, but also with shades of grey or sequin embroidered, confirming that women’s fashion, once in a while, peers out in men’s wardrobe.

The show took place in a very thin yet extremely tall woods forest, a magic place stolen to the oriental nature. Dsquared2’s #MANGAPUNK knows what it wants and where to go. A simply mesmerizing collection to watch: we definitely look forward to what they will show in June.

Timi Letonja - Simone Bronzi
CEO & Founder of RooMXMatez TM - Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM


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Backstage photos courtesy of male model Benjamin Benedek who took part to the show:

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