«“You wanna know what comes between
me and my Calvins?” - “Nothing” sharply replied an under-age Brooke Shield.
That ‘nothing’ has become a cross-generational imperative. Between you and your
Calvins? Go commando! That’s amore. Watching that spot- sentenced as obscene
!?!- over and over again, I thought: “Body consciousness and confidence, that’s
exactly what CK was aiming to highlight. I don’t see anything indecorous”».
Last
Sunday afternoon, Milan Men’s Fashion Week saw American brand Calvin Klein
heading up on stage, or better on the runway. His Fall/Winter 2016 collection
highlighted once again all the versatility intrinsic of his style, by
conjugating impeccable fitted blazers and slender suits with more casual
jackets, where polished fabrics stood out while being carried by most of the
models on the catwalk. A well mixed and articulated line-up in its complexity,
which bet on a composite sort of fashion. A various shaded casual, developed
according to the many needs of today's man.
Italo
Zucchelli went all over body consciousness with his Calvin today, but this time
with an imposing design. Snug-fitting trousers paired with austere double and
single-breasted jackets push the entire collection. Some white outfit with
delicate strokes of enlightening gold light up the dark heaviness. Copper, gold
and silver metallic silk down jackets glanced out under almost any outfit
walking down the runway.
For
his FW16 collection, Klein pops up a travel towards the discovery of the
brand’s origins, made of very tidy basis-outfits, sartorially speaking,
realized with rich fabrics and very original details. CK walks out a white and
camel Jacquard denim look, in which tailoring appears sensual and imperfect,
where pants and jackets get worn on the naked skin of the models. During the
show oversized Montgomery’s and parkas don’t miss, while the energy of the
collection comes from metallic silver, gold and rose gold foils.
For
a habitual minimalist like Calvin, this collection is thrilling, representing
the risk taken by Italo adopting dazzling fine texture more than a twist in
Klein’s sobriety. Minimalism then, a key component of this brand’s creative principles, was rock-solidly
present. Silver and gold metallics became the focus, though
painted-denim looks at the beginning were in a crisp white that were brushed
and edged with gold, and puffer jackets were in metallics that were punctuated by tailored suit jackets and trousers in a black
and a khaki.
The
ones chosen and used by Calvin Klein are rich and hefty fabrics, like wool,
silk and cashmere combined with laminated nylon, which gives a touch of ease to
the looks. The colours palette used in the collection refer to the neutral
nuances of black, white, camel and ivy, which work as a background for the
metallic shades. As a completion of the looks, derby shoes, silk bands
transformed into pouches for the tuxedos, earrings and necklaces which remind
us of bolts.
Protagonists
of CK’s collection are proportions and measures, which contribute to give a
perfectly harmonious and linear style to the outfits, as the couturier
prerogative declare: coats’ lengths to the knees, while jackets preserve a slim
shape, contrasting the oversized yet heavily-shaped overcoats, vests and
jumpers. Innovative characteristic is the substitution of the shirts underneath
the suits with t-shirts or round-necked sweaters, while blazers can vary from
mono- to double-breasted. A touch of just hinted transgressive newness is the
comparison of shirt-dresses of the same length as the coats.
Calvin Klein
Collection, the high-end spin-off of your favorite underwear manufacturers, hit
pretty much every trend going at its FW16 show in Milan. The brand started with
an opening salvo of washed, ripped denim - something that CK had made a
hallmark decades before streetwear young guns started shredding their
jeans to pieces. Aside from the denim and suits, there were camel coats,
duffel coats, navy topcoats (both single- and double-breasted varieties) and
bombers all of which are omnipresent staples in this day and
age. Shimmering, tin foil-like metallic outerwear, not so much, but those
dazzling fabrics certainly spiced up what was otherwise an extremely polished,
extremely on-trend onslaught of statuesque models.
Must
haves are surely the last mentioned shirt-dresses, the Calvins jeans and the
outerwear items, yet the contrasting tuxedoes pouches bands, the monkstrap shoes
and the leather brogue shoes.
Wow
is the word that describes it all in our opinion! Simply WOW! What stood out in
the collection were the metallic silver and gold details on the jackets, shoes,
pants and coats. Our absolute favourite was the gold metallic and white parka
jacket. Simply love it and want it. The collection itself was simple yet authentic
and true to the brand. With metallic as the key detail.
Timi
Letonja - Simone Bronzi
CEO
& Founder of RooMXMatez TM - Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM
It's a story about two room mates who just love living their lives. Join our journey. «To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.»
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