RooMXMatez TM: THE NATION'S ARMY

THE NATION'S ARMY

By Unknown Tuesday, January 26, 2016 Fashion Weeks

The new legacy: between royalty and aristocratic details, Balmain’s Fall/Winter 2016 man perfectly represents his Creative Director’s style, Oliver Rousteing, who, at only thirty years of age has been able to reinvent the style of the French Maison, to transform any detail in seasonal must-have. Golden passementerie, velvelt pants, quilted jackets and jacquard fabrics: an opulent mix made of military details, between double-breasted cabans, quilted boots and the reference to the European cavalry. Victorians looks, between Paisley prints and velvet western boots, emphasized by a monochromatic noble-allured palette: red, royal blue, gold and black. The leather or velvet gold detailed backpack confirms himself as next season’s must have piece, to carry at hand with elegant nonchalance.

Incredible were the circus-vibe pants in red and the black striped pants, as well as the pop of colours on jackets, blazers and bags especially the navy blue one. The collection looks very luxurious and versatile in materials and silhouettes as well as colours, from blue to black, from red to dark green. Absolutely amazing were also the high waist pants and all the details on every piece made in the collection. Our favourite part in the show were the blue looks and the two jackets in various shiny details.

©RooMXMatez TM 2015

Olivier Rousteing's latest collection for Balmain once again turns its face away from austerity. Balmain will forever be about excess, opulence and attitude as long as Rousteing is in charge. For FW16, his signature military tailoring was accentuated by an excess of crystals, frogging, patches and other accoutrements. French fashion house Balmain keeps with its signature military/cavalry-inspired theme for this year’s fall collection, not unlike its recent collaboration with H&M late last year. Also synonymous to the label, the collection sports a bold yet simple colour palette of mostly red, blue and black, imprints from the brand heralded and appropriated by Rousteing himself.

Quilted riding boots complemented most of the looks that saw every embellishment available to put on clothes. The intricacy of the workmanship is excellent while heavy and, sometimes gaudy, pieces may deter some; there are many others, whom call themselves the Balmain Army, who would give almost anything and everything to own these pieces. While the season commonly depicts layers and of course outerwear, all found within the range, the standout pieces for Fall 2016 from Balmain includes a comeback of the knee-high boot, and military jacket and coats, as well as the use of classic patterns such as checks and stripes.

Olivier Rousteing’s commandment of the catwalk’s best and brightest is well-known. And it was reiterated again today: Jon Kortajarena, Lucky Blue Smith, Marlon Teixeira, Francisco Lachowski, Dudley O’Shaughnessy, Baptiste Giabiconi, Jordan K. Barrett, Sean O’Pry and Filip Hrivnak were all present. Continuing to command his #BalmainArmy and the house’s militaristic aesthetic is a Rousteing-only mastery. «Where the SS16 Balmain man (Rousteing’s inaugural menswear show) was an adventurer, clad for all climates, this season the inspiration came from Hungarian Army’s elite horsemen, the Hussars - an army with a reputation for being dashing adventurers, all gold braided jackets and leather boots. Sound familiar?».

Colours came dark and details, gold buttons, brooches and embroidered insignias, contrasted for striking effect. Rousteing’s dextrous signature of embroidered embellishments has become his calling card, as well as his womenswear: lapels were decorated with rococo swirls, chequered patterns were woven in, and jackets were highly embroidered with coloured florals. Necklines were cut deep, proper deep, which to some dudes would be social heresy but, however, from Generation Z’s perspective who fervently jump into off-bound gender territories, it’s not such a crazy idea. Executing this season’s line-up demonstrated the designer’s firm comprehension of the brand’s direction.

«Balmain’s previous men’s collectionlooked back to legendary explorers and their adaptive manner of dressing. For next fall’s designs, Balmain’s team continued to build upon that theme, imagining the mindset and styles of those adventurers, soldiers and scientists after they have returned home to Paris. Behind the inspiration lies a renewed appreciation of Paris’ role as the true city of light. This city has a long and unique history of openness to and celebration of the best offerings from every corner of the world. When past centuries’ explorers returned, they excited Parisians with their discoveries, filled museums with what had once been unimaginable styles of art and challenged longheld conceptions with fresh, original ways of thinking. This singular eagerness to embrace a diversity of creations, cultures and ideas has, of course, continued over generations and centuries, lasting up to our present day, a fact that enrages intolerant minds both here and abroad».

This collection, combining traditional French, foreign, aristocratic and military influences into a new, Balmain Homme FW16 modern urban style, celebrates that inspiring tradition of openness and adaptation. Scottish tartans, French Jacquards and Japanese wools are used for a variety of riffs on classic fraks, relaxed streetwear and cuirassier uniforms. Balmain’s ateliers ensure that the intricate embroideries, as well as the woven and quilted leathers meet the house’s exacting standards. As the runway makes clear, Balmain’s army continues to be made up of our generation’s most stylish men, a diverse and inclusive group that easily blends these luxury, heritage and street influences into its own relaxed and confident manner of dressing.

Timi Letonja - Simone Bronzi

CEO & Founder of RooMXMatez TM - Creative Director of RooMXMatez TM